#1 MOST COMMON PROBLEM: NEEDLE INSERTION
The Featherweight uses the common needle type which goes by several different designations; 15X1, 705, etc. These come in sizes from 8 (smallest) to 19 (largest). The “size” refers to the thickness of the needle, and not the length. All modern household machines, Featherweight included, use the same length needle.
The critical difference between the Featherweight and most other machines is that the NEEDLE IS INSERTED WITH THE FLAT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE TO THE OPERATORS LEFT. (Illustrated above) Unless the needle is inserted correctly the MACHINE WILL NOT SEW. Certainly you must also be sure your needle is not bent or blunted. Better to dispose of a questionable needle than take a chance
Although the Singer “color-coded” needles are suitable, I prefer the Schmetz brand for quality. Any others should be avoided.
This post seems really basic, but I have seen many hundreds of Featherweights which would not sew because the needle was inserted incorrectly.
For a wide selection of parts for vintage Singer, Pfaff, or Bernina machines see our website www.vintagesingersewing.com
34 comments:
The "sideways" needle thing is a "gotcha" that got me!
Yes, that curious flat-side-on-the-"wrong"-side confused me the first time I encountered it.
Oh, good, I've just bought some Schmetz needles, so am pleased I made the right choice.
Thanks!
Can someone help me. My thread keeps coming out of the needle. the tension is very tight even when on zero. How do I adjust the tension.? Any help would be so appreciated up against a deadline/
Judy
I have 2 singer 500a machines. The foot control on one makes the machine go really slow. The foot control on the other works fine on that machine. The other machine goes slow no matter what foot control I use. Any tips?
Thank goodness for your article. My dear mother, expert on this machine, died and I would have had a lot of problems figuring this out. You saved the day!
Thanks a bunch.
I couldn't figure out what was wrong.
I was all over the tension settings with no improvement. Turned the needle around as you illustrated and now my machine sews beautifully.
I have another problem with my Featherweight 221K. Before I start to sew, I like to use the hand wheel to lower the needle to pick up a thread from the bobbin. Then pull it through, then start my sewing. Last sewing session, I was not able to do this because the thread wouldn't catch. And it sounds as if something is out of wack with the bobbin. Although I am able to sew, it isn't a smooth process. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I just bought a singer 221k from ebay. The machine won't sew for more than 3-4 inches.
I tried all I can by cleaning in bobbin mechanism, checking tension on thread and bobbin case but the problem still exist. After tightening the screw on the bobbin case I could stitch upto 4 inches without thread breaking.
When I opened the bobbin case base to clean up any caught threads I found that it has a crack around the centre stud.
Also, I have noticed very carefully that thread breaks because the bobbin case has slipped out of its place. Then when it is pressed back so that the stud centre is flush with the bobbin case face it sews for another 3-4 inches and thread breaks again. I think it is the crack in the bobbin case base which is pushing it out.
Please help. I like my machine but if repairs/parts are going to cost me more than than I bought it for I prefer to return it.
Please help
i have decided to sell my singer sewing machine 221 featherweight just been to check it out and soon as i plug it in it starts on it's own without pressing the foot pedal?.
Need some advice: Mom has a 1952 Singer feather weight 221-1. Took it in for a checkup and ever since cannot use it because it runs so slowly. Any ideas what might be wrong?
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I have another problem with my Featherweight 221K. Before I start to sew, I like to use the hand wheel to lower the needle to pick up a thread from the bobbin. Then pull it through, then start my sewing. Last sewing session, I was not able to do this because the thread wouldn't catch. And it sounds as if something is out of wack with the bobbin. Although I am able to sew, it isn't a smooth process. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. meja tamu
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That did not solve my problem because it was already inserted correctly. However, my thread keeps wrapping around the spindle from the spool. How can I keep that from happening. That may be the problem. But I don't know what to do to keep it from wrapping around. It seems as though the hole in the spool is too big.
Thanks!
Pam K.
My upper thread is also getting hung up in the bobbin casing area. It's wrapping around the casing. What am I doing wrong?
Pam
Pam.
The casing is weid on some of these, be sure you have everything properly inserted, that the casing can't be removed without the latch being deployed. Bring up the bobbin thread, and make sure you have the top thread and bottom thread at least 6-8 inches in length, hold them as you start making stitches.
Of course double check everything, all the basics, but the above should do it.
I realize this is the long way around, but if you get put on a variety of machines, understand the following: The bobbin case is on the side of the needle that loops the upper thread using a hook. To do that it needs to be super close to the needle. Quality needles have a scarf (cutaway) to allow the hook to come all the way into the needle. This scarf is above the eye, on the opposite side from the side with the groove. So rule of thumb is THE SCARF ALWAYS FACES THE BOBBIN CASE.
The groove on the needle allows the thread on one side of the needle to be inside the needle so that the needle thread combo penetrates more easily. It should be obvious that is not going to be the side that the bobbin hook assembly forms the stitch on as it would have to penetrate the steel of the needle to get to the thread. So: THE GROOVE ON THE NEEDLE GOES TO THE SIDE AWAY FROM THE HOOK/BOBBIN CASE/ BOBBIN ASSEMBLY. To state the reverse of the first point.
I just purchased a Featherweight on eBay. The lubricant was rock solid. Nothing moved. After lots of mineral oil we were able to remove the lubricant and free and clean it up. But, the tension was way off. My son worked with it and found it was the needle. There was a package of original needles with the machine. They don't have a scarf. Were can I get these needles? He replaced a Schmets needle with the antique one. The machine was built in 1936.
Mcrweety
Just purchased my first Featherweight. Having a problem with thread staying in the needle. When I insert the needle with the flat side facing left, the machine doesn't sew properly. It will do a couple of stitches, then bunch up. When I pull the fabric out, there is thread going through the fabric, BUT THE THREAD IS NO LONGER THREADED THROUGH THE NEEDLE! Cannot understand how that can happen.
I re-inserted the needle with the flat side facing the back of the machine, and it seems to sew a good stitch. However, that is not how the instructions say to insert the needle. What's going on?
I read your article last night after so much frustration. I ran downstairs and tried the needle you suggested, Yep sews like a dream!!!
Thank you!!
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OHHHH,you made my day!!! I wore out my ELNA SU . My mom left me her Feather Weight 221 and I tired to get it to work but the needle kept falling out! I bought new needles at Walmart with no success. I was in a financial tight and I was locked out of my computer. It's been 5 yrs.! I finally got my computer up and running and was looking for sewing machine repair and I came across the post about the #1 problem with Featherweights - and low and behold, I was putting the needle in incorrectly - maybe. So I drug out the machine, tried putting in the needle with the flat side to the left and miracle of miracles, IT WORKED and IT SEWED, and it sewed a BEAUTIFUL STITCH! I am so excited. I was thinking I'd have to buy a machine but I couldn't justify the expense with the children all grown. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
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Help please ... I can't get the bobbin wheel to turn to load on new thread. When lowered onto belt it stops the belt and main wheel from turning and screeches. When bobbin wheel is up, belt and main wheel run fine. I've tried loosening or tightening inner silver wheel on main wheel ( loosens or tightens the main eye arm on front left that is the lead thread arm in conjunction with needle up/down). Suggestions?
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